Start off the Big Five trail in search of crayfish among the Koster Islands. Make tracks for Strömstad, near the border with Norway, and take the ferry to the Kosters. Car-free, the islands are part of Sweden’s first marine national park, a unique environment with the country’s highest marine biodiversity, which opened in September 2009. Join the youngest fisherman on the island, Niclas, to catch the crayfish and stay overnight at the charming, family-run Sydkoster Hotel Ekenäs on South Koster. If you need to work off some of the delicious food, there are all sorts of activities on offer including cycling, diving, sea kayaking and walking.