Route 3. Gothenburg’s Living Cultural Heritage

If you walk along the canal, you reach the square Grönsakstorget, which also dates back to when this was a fortified city. In the early 1800s, a large flowering garden was built here, and fifty years later, this became the city's main centre for vegetables, fruit, and flowers. Trade started early in the mornings, and a famous market character was the old lady Elvira Kjellberg, who from 1888-1928 stood here, whatever the weather. Next to the square is the half-oval that used to house Sahlgrenska Hospital. It now belongs to the university, and was extended in 2006, to a design by Nyréns Arkitektkontor. The Danish 3xNielsen also designed a glass building for the university, in the next block. Its glass front has been fitted with a slightly unusual form of sun protection, with slats of yellow brick, as a wink to the surrounding buildings. Around the corner is also the legendary jazz club, Nefertiti.

The next stop along the canal is Fiskhallen (the Fish Hall), which was designed by Victor von Gegerfelt in 1874. This was Gothenburg's fish trading centre until 1910, when the new Fish Harbour in Majorna opened. The building was designed in gothic style, and with its steep roof, seven uniform side chapels, and pointed windows it could easily be mistaken for a medieval church. For this reason, it's been given the nickname 'Feskekörka' (Fish Church) by local residents. Nowadays, they still sell plenty of fish in the beautiful hall, and there is also a restaurant.

Before crossing the canal, why not walk past Esperantoplatsen, where you'll find a 'language café', where the employees speak a number of languages and guests are encourage to practise their knowledge of foreign tongues. On the other side of the square, the high stone wall Carolus XI Rex is visible. This is the only remaining bastion from Gothenburg's fortifications. Once across the canal, you'll find yourself in the stone city built during the great expansion at the end of the 19th century, and into the early 20th century. This square is called Järntorget, and this was where all iron imported to the city was weighed. The square later became the centre for the working-class movement.

Today, Järntorget is an important hub for local culture. This is where you'll find Folkets hus, built in 1956, and designed by Nils Einar Eriksson, with a theatre, restaurants, and offices. The cinema Draken is also part of Folkets hus, and the centre of the city's annual international film festival. Across the street is Pusterviksteatern, one of Gothenburg's finest theatres, as well as a small bar area, with concerts and night clubs. West of the square are four roads called 'the Long Roads', with homes and businesses in a mix of old and new houses. Along these roads are several bars, small restaurants and unusual shops. The impressive Linnégatan also begins at Järntorget. It's one of Gothenburg's three large avenues from the second half of the 19th century. Linnégatan has a continental atmosphere, and is lined by impressive brick buildings, with towers and stone details. There are restaurants along both sides of the road, all the way to the famous park, Slottsskogen, and in the middle of the street is the cinema Hagabion, which shows films from all parts of the world, and includes a coffee shop which is always busy. On the ground floor is the bar Kino, which has become immensely popular since it opened in 2009.

Text: Per Nadén