The regulating lock at Borensberg was completed in 1820. It was the first to be built under Swedish supervision. The work was carried out by men who had been trained on site by British foremen.
The Göta Canal offers many different experiences. The Lockage is without a doubt one of the best. Just take your time and remember that the lock-keepers know what to do and are always there to help.
Fenders It is important to have enough fenders, or there is a risk that your boat will scrape against the lock walls and quays. You may even want to have a board fastened to the outside of the fenders. Remember that the quays are sometimes low, so a couple of fenders should be placed close to the waterline. It is a common mistake only to have fenders on one side of the boat the side facing the wall. Boats today are often wide and it is not unusual that two boats only just fit in a lock side by side. To avoid damaging any neighbouring boats, you should therefore have fenders on both sides. You should also be prepared to change sides and lock on the “wrong side” if the traffic situation so requires.
RopesRopes must be in good condition and of suitable length. The stern line should be 6-8 m and the painter should be 8-10 m. For sailing boats the painter can be fed through a fairlead at the bow and to the stern, and the line can be tightened with the help of a winch. The painter therefore needs to exceed 8-10 m, also covering the length of the boat from stern to winch. Adjust the length in the first lock, as the same length generally applies for all locks.
Life jacketsAre a recommended safety precaution for everyone, but children MUST WEAR life jackets onboard. If you should fall into the water during lockage, there is a danger that you will be sucked under by the cur-rents and any heavy, wet clothing. A life jacket will keep you afloat and you can then be fished out of the water.
1. When the lockkeeper gives the all clear and indicates your position in the lock, for example, in front to the starboard side, check that you have sufficient fenders on the starboard side. Lines must of course also be secured on the same side. A practical way to do this is to make a loop, about half a metre in diameter, at the end of the rope that is to be secured on land. This lets you avoid tying and untying the mooring in each chamber.
3. Now throw the painter up to the person on shore and secure it round a ring about 3-4 m in front of the vessel’s bow. If you are not sure which ring to use, choose one that is further forwards rather than nearer the boat. If you have a sailing boat, the painter can be fed through a fairlead at the bow and to the stern, and the line can be tightened with the help of a winch. It is ALWAYS easier to use a winch than to tighten the line by hand. And if you do pull by hand, it is easier for the person on board to tighten the rope than for the person on land.
4. Keep the lines taut so that the boat is moored close to the lock wall. When the chamber starts to fill, the water streams in through the front sluice towards the lower lock gate, pushing the boat forwards. Therefore NEVER loosen or haul in the stern line - it will take care of itself. When the boat is pushed forwards, the painter often slackens. To avoid this, make sure that the painter is taut when lockage begins and then haul the line in slowly and evenly during the time it takes to complete lockage. If the painter is slack, there is a risk that the boat might swing out into the middle of the lock. The currents can then push the boat back into the lock wall with considerable force, which could harm both you and the boat. When lockage is complete, the person on shore just needs to lift off the loops, get on board and away you go. In a double lock or a lock flight, the easiest way to move into the next lock chamber is to loosen the fore line from the winch and the stern line from the deck cleat, so that they run freely. The person on land lifts off the stern loop from the ring, holds on to the rope and walks ahead at the same speed as the boat.When the person passes the painter, they also lift this off and walk on. Once you are in the next chamber, the person on land then puts the stern loop over a ring corresponding to that in the first chamber.You can then stop the boat by tightening the stern line whilst the person on shore moves forwards and puts the bow loop over a ring that again corresponds to that in the first chamber. The lock continues in this way.
3. Feed the lines out gradually as the water level sinks. When lockage is completed and it is time to leave the lock, pull the lines from the boat back down through the quayside rings. Pull carefully in order to avoid the line knotting. It is easiest if everyone is onboard once lockage starts in the last chamber, as you then avoid any problems with getting onboard when the boat is well below the quayside. There are many other ways to lock your boat, but this is a tried, tested and simple way. Remember to have the engine switched off during locking, as exhaust and petrol fumes can easily remain in the lock. You should therefore not smoke during locking. Finally, it is easiest if there is more than one person on board who can control the boat.
See you at the locks and bridges! From the Lockkeepers and Bridge Masters