Genuine West Swedish coastal life – northern Bohuslän

The northern part of the Swedish west coast has everything from wild rocky expanses to welcoming small towns. The sea is of course always on your doorstep here – making its mark on both food experiences and sights. Here’s a suggestion for how you could spend a couple of days in northern Bohuslän.

 

Day 1:

Start in Strömstad

Bohuslän is characterised by its many little coastal villages, but Strömstad is actually one of the larger towns in the area, with around 7 500 inhabitants. In the lively town centre there are plenty of shops where you can buy clothes, locally produced delicacies and different kinds of craftwork.

If you want to cool off there’s a traditional ‘kallbadhus’ (cold bath house) in what used to be Strömstad’s health resort. Head to the centrally located Södra Hamnen for a refreshing dip looking out over the North Sea.

Take the boat out to the Koster Islands

From Strömstad you can take a boat out to the Koster Islands, which is actually the westernmost point in Sweden with a resident population. South Koster is the largest of the two islands, and has varied landscapes with open pastures, coastal meadows, forests and rocky outcrops.

If you want to learn more about the Koster Islands and the marine national park there, we recommend a visit to the naturum Kosterhavet nature centre. When you’re ready for a fika, Café Ekner is close by – a great place for a pit stop before you set off on one of the many walking trails around the island. Both North and South Koster are the perfect size to be explored on foot.

Otherwise on South Koster bikes are the main mode of transport, as the island is virtually car free.

If you choose to stay on Koster, we highly recommend Kläpphagen. It's a Boutique B&B where both the accommodation and the restaurant will enhance your stay

Check in at Scandic Hotel Laholmen or Strömstad Spa & Resort

Take the boat back to Strömstad and check in at Scandic Hotel Laholmen, on a peninsula in Strömstads harbour. If you’re tired after a long day in the fresh air then dinner in the hotel restaurant is a good choice. If you have any energy left we recommend a walk to Backlunds Bageri/Bistro & Bar along the coastal path.

In Strömstad, you'll also find Strömstad Spa & Resort . It is a modern spa resort located 10 meters from the seaside, and a delightful place for those who desire some extra relaxation.

Nearest stop: Strömstad Station

More accommodations near Strömstad: Stay in a cabin or at a campsite at Lagunen or Daftö Resort.

Day 2:

 Travel on to Grebbestad/Fjällbacka

After a tasty hotel breakfast it’s time to head on to Grebbestad and Fjällbacka. If you’re interested in history – and even if you aren’t! – then a trip to Vitlycke museum to look at the ancient rock carvings is well worth the detour.

You’ll get a unique insight into life in the Bronze Age here – and can marvel at the 8,000 year old cultural landscape and the enigmatic pictorial treasure that is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Travel on to Grebbestad, where the harbour area is lined with fishing boats, picturesque fishing huts and restaurants serving delicious fika or tasty fish and seafood dishes.

Are you a fan of oysters? Then you’ve come to the right place! The wild oysters harvested in the pristine waters off Grebbestad are said to be among the best in the world. And while you’re in Grebbestad, take the opportunity to walk up to the highest point and admire the fantastic view of the harbour and the sea. 

Stay in Grebbestad

If you want to explore Grebbestad longer you can have a lovely stay at TanumStrand, perched on the rocks just outside the town. Enjoy the spa area in the afternoon, then eat at the hotel or walk along the seashore into Grebbestad in the evening. You could also stay at Everts Sjöbod, have a dip in the hot tub and eat one of their famous seafood platters. If you’re an oyster lover then you should definitely book an oyster tasting.

Nearest stop: Grebbestad bus station

More accommodations near Grebbestad: Stay in a cabin or at a campsite at: Grebbestadfjorden, Saltviks Camping

Stay in Fjällbacka

You could also drive back to Fjällbacka for an overnight stay. Fjällbacka is a real west coast idyll with a genuine cultural history. The actress Ingrid Bergmans loved to stay in the town when she was in Sweden, and author Camilla Läckberg’s detective novels are set here. The Kungsklyftan ravine in Vetteberget was one of the places used when Astrid Lindgren’s book Ronja the Robber’s Daughter was filmed. If you have time to fit anything else in then why not go out to sea on a shellfish safari with MS Mira.

Check in at Bryggan in Fjällbacka, where you can both stay and eat right next to the sea, at Restaurang Matilda, for instance, specialising in fish and shellfish, or Everts tapas bar, if you would rather have a selection of small dishes. A further alternative is Stora Hotellet where you can eat at one of the hotel’s three different concept restaurants – Mamsell, Grano or Asado.

And something to think about before you head off to bed: Do you like to wander around the rocks, swim, enjoy absolutely fresh shellfish and watch both seals and sea birds in their natural habitat? Then we suggest that tomorrow you fit in a trip out to the Weather Islands. If you also want to stay overnight Värdshuset has rooms.

Nearest stop: Fjällbacka

Day 3:

 Travel on to Smögen

It’s time to head off to one of northern Bohuslän’s most classic landmarks: the colourful fishing huts along the Smögenbryggan boardwalk. A walk along it when you get here is a must. The huts nestle up to each other on the 600 metre long jetty, and house shops, cafes and restaurants with locally caught fish and shellfish.

From here you can also go on a boat trip with Smögens Fiske & skärgårdsturer who have a range of different archipelago activities. If you want to go over to nearby Kungshamn you can travel with Zitabåtarna who ply the waters between Smögen and Kungshamn at certain times of the year. During summer the area is a real honeypot for visitors and boat owners, at other times of the year it’s calmer and quieter – both experiences have their charm.

Have lunch on the boardwalk, at Skärets Krog & Café for instance, or head over to the other side, to  Klevens Tre kök. At both places fish and shellfish form the basis of the menu.

Check in to Smögens Hafvsbad

Smögens Hafvsbad was opened in 1900 as a health resort, and is now a modern spa hotel with the old charm intact. Enjoy a few hours of swimming, sauna and treatments before having dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, with a wonderful view of the waves, sky, Smögen and the rocks while you relish a meal inspired by the sea.

Nearest stop: Smögen bus station

More accommodations near Smögen: Stay in a cabin or at a campsite at: Johannesvik Camping or Ramsvik Stugby & Camping

Day 4:

 Head on to Fiskebäckskil/Lysekil

Fiskebäckskil and Lysekil lie on either side of the Gullmar fjord. Stay in one of the towns and take the ferry over to the other, or vice versa.  Whatever your choice the area lends itself perfectly to a real journey of discovery.

Nearest stop: Fiskebäckskil vägskäl

Fiskebäcksskil

In Fiskebäckskil on Skaftö you can wander the winding lanes and admire the captains’ villas and fishermen’s cottages. Make sure you go past the beautiful church and have a look at artist Carl Wilhelmsson’s villa and studio from the outside.

 

From Fiskebäckskil you can get to idyllically beautiful Grundsund. Should you want to stay the night there then Hotell Villa Lönndal will welcome you in. The hotel is in a lovely position in Grundsund with the sea canal just a few metres away. If you want to get out to sea and explore the archipelago we suggest you take a kayak tour with Balanspunkten who offer both guided tours and kayak hire.

Nearest stop: Grundsund

If you choose to spend the night at Gullmarsstrand your stay will be zero metres from the sea, on a long jetty with a view of the islands and bays in Gullmarsfjord. The hotel has a spa, a restaurant using local produce and a deck where you can eat something light or just have a nice drink.

Alternatively you could stay at Slipens hotell, where each room has its own story and the restaurant serves food rooted in Bohuslän’s traditions, with elements from other kitchens and cultures. Are you a whisky buff? If so you should stop at Brygghuset which has Sweden’s largest selection of malt whiskies and has twice been awarded Whiskey Pub of the Year. If you continue further south on Skaftö you can stay at Grundéns hotell.

 

Lysekil

Gamlestan is the old town in Lysekil, where the original settlement was, and there are several well preserved, charming neighbouhoods to stroll around in. Other areas with a historic connection are the Kallbadhuset and Havsbadsparken.

Just west of the town lies the Stångehuvud nature reserve, stunning ice worn rocky outcrops with walking trails and fantastic sea views. Anothe tip is to take a boat trip onboard Signe and eat oysters and mussels in a real archipelago setting – or have a dip in the traditional cold bath house in the town. Would you like a closer view of life under the surface? Then visit Havets hus, the aquarium in the middle of Lysekil, where you can get a glimpse of life in the North Sea with all its fascinating species, without getting your feet wet.

Check in at Strandflickornas Havshotell or Grand Hotell Lysekil

There’s a great choice of accommodation at Strandflickorna. You can check into one of their three lovely turn of the century villas with individually decorated rooms, or if you would really like to be more or less in the sea we can recommend Havsateljén or Badpaviljongen – two glazed rooms on wooden pillars at the water’s edge, with private outdoor hot tub and sundeck with sun chairs. 

Another option, for anyone want to stay in charming hotel dating back to end of the 19th century, is the Grand Hotell,  located in a so called Swiss style building in the middle of Lysekil’s town square.

Eat dinner in the Nordic White Guide recommended Norra Hamnen 5, where a menu strongly influenced by local ingredients from the coast and sea is served, accompanied by a magnificent view of the North Sea.

Another option is Publik Mat & Bar – a modern bistro with food inspired by, among other places, the West Coast, Japan and South America. End your stay in northern Bohuslän with a real taste journey, without having to move from the jetty where the bistro is located.

Nearest stop: Lysekil södra hamnen